Faith, history and fun in the sun: Richmond & Virginia Beach

There are few destinations in America that so perfectly combine exploring the nation’s past and soaking in the bounty of its natural splendor as the Tidewater Region of Virginia and the state capital of Richmond. All within a one and a half hour radius, are the first English settlement in America at Jamestown, the meticulously well preserved colonial capital of Williamsburg, the fascinating state capital of Richmond – which played a central role in the foundation of America and in the Civil War – the country’s largest naval base in Norfolk, and the white sand beaches of Virginia Beach. Nestled within these destinations are several notable churches and discovery of a centuries-old Catholic presence that precedes the arrival of the first English settlers.

Richmond

The state capital of Richmond provides an excellent base for exploring the region, with day trips to northern Virginia and to the tidewater region of Williamsburg, Jamestown, Norfolk, and Virginia Beach all within a 90 minute drive from downtown Richmond.

Richmond canals (photo courtesy of Visit Richmond)

Nestled on the shores of the James River, Richmond is blessed with parks, canals, and civic monuments, heritage homes, fascinating museums, and many opportunities for outdoor adventures from whitewater rafting to exploring Pocahontas State Park. The city also boasts a thriving food scene including as a renowned craft beer destination.

Richmond offers an unrivaled opportunity to bring American history alive with sites linked to both the American Revolution and the Civil War. In the course of one afternoon, you can visit St. John’s Episcopal Church, where Patrick Henry famously delivered his “Liberty or Death” speech in March 1775, and the Virginia legislature which was the site of heated debates as Thomas Jefferson and James Madison worked to bring an end to the privileged position of the Church of England and enshrine the separation of Church and State in law; this effort culminated in the 1786 Statute for Religious Freedom, which inspired the First Amendment protecting religious freedom. The Civil War is re-lived through the American Civil War Museum, the White House of the Confederacy, Hollywood Cemetery, and the Richmond National Battlefield Park.

The State Capitol Building, which was designed by Thomas Jefferson (photo courtesy of: Virginia Tourism Corporation, http://www.Virginia.org)

Encountering Catholic Richmond

Although Catholics struggled for recognition in Protestant Virginia, a small but vibrant center of Catholicism has been entrenched for nearly two centuries in Richmond. The story of the evolution of the church in Richmond is wonderfully portrayed in the exhibits of the Museum of Virginia Catholic History, located in the lower level of the city’s Cathedral of the Sacred Heart. A key figure in the state’s Catholic history is Servant of God Francis J. Prater, who was a seminarian of the Diocese of Richmond and a renowned Boy Scout; one of the few in early twentieth century America who rose to the rank of Eagle Scout. He died at the young age of 23 while completing his studies in Rome. His writings provide a deep spirituality, the most famous of which is an oblation to the Sacred Heart, which two subsequent Popes have requested. As he was dying, he wrote, “I shall be of more use to my diocese in Heaven than I can ever be on earth.”

Another notable church in the city is St. Peter’s Church. It was the first Catholic parish in Richmond and served as the cathedral of the Richmond diocese until 1906. Although it has always had a small congregation, there have been notable Catholics linked to it, including St. John Neumann who ministered to German immigrants who came to Richmond to build its canals, and the family of President John Tyler. Tyler’s second wife worshiped and was buried here, and his step-daughter was also married in the church (Tyler is buried at the Hollywood Cemetery, as is President Monroe).

Finally, in the heart of the city’s museum district, a short walk from both the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts and the Virginia Museum of History and Culture is the grand St. Benedict Church. It was established by Benedictine monks in 1911 as the German national parish and has preserved a lot of its German heritage, including a three day Oktoberfest event that attracts over 40,000 people annually. It is filled with beautiful art and architecture and offers a weekly Latin Mass. The nave is lined with stained glass windows depicting Benedictine saints and there is beautiful mural behind the main altar illustrating St. Benedict and the four doctors of the western Church.

DAY TRIPS FROM RICHMOND

Tidewater Region-Williamsburg, Jamestown, Norfolk and Virginia Beach

One of the most popular side trips from Richmond is the journey east to the Atlantic coast and the Tidewater Region of Virginia, where a trio of iconic sites await: the meticulously preserved colonial village of Williamsburg and archeological remains of Jamestown; the naval town of Norfolk; and the white sand expanses of Virginia Beach. These are all within an easy ninety minute drive from downtown Richmond.

Williamsburg is the most expansive and best preserved colonial town in America. You can enter the old shops, participate in the re-enactments of life in colonial America, and witness the daily parade of colonial soldiers in full regalia with pipes and drums. It is not surprising that the Catholic connection to Williamsburg would be rooted in English Catholicism, and hence, it is here that you can visit the National Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham and reflect on this centuries-old English devotion to Mary. The Shrine is located on the campus of the College of William and Mary; founded in 1693, it is the second oldest university in the United States. Nearby is the expansive parish church of St. Bede occupying a large 43 acre campus. The church’s murals provide a wonderful visual aid to teach children about the various saints, blesseds, and venerables of the United States and England, as explained on the parish’s website.

Jamestown is a short drive from Williamsburg. Established in 1607, it is the oldest English settlement in the Americas and remains an active archeological site. Many of the most prominent discoveries are displayed in the Archaearium museum. Among the items on display are crucifixes that were unearthed, strongly suggesting there was a Catholic presence at Jamestown right from its foundation. In recent years, archeologists have found additional evidence to suggest that some leaders of the first settlement in America may have been outwardly Anglican, but secretly Catholic.

If a diversion is needed after a day reliving the colonial era, there is a fantastic theme park in Williamsburg – Busch Gardens Williamsburg – that will be sure to do the trick.

In the heart of downtown Norfolk is the Basilica of St. Mary of the Immaculate Conception. This is one of the oldest Catholic churches in Virginia. Its first parishioners were French Catholics fleeing the French Revolution in Europe and it was also one of the first Catholic churches in America to welcome Irish immigrants. The current edifice was completed in 1858 and has the distinction of being the first church in the world named for the Immaculate Conception, after Pope Pius IX’s declaration of that dogma.

Norfolk is also home to one of the largest Navy bases in the world. It should come as no surprise, given the bravery of Catholic men and women in uniform, that there is a guided missile destroyer in active service based out of Norfolk named after a heroic Navy Chaplain: the USS Laboon. Fr. Jake Laboon served in active duty during WWII, recognized for his bravery in diving from a submarine to rescue a downed aviator. Following the war, he entered the Jesuits, but then returned to the military as a navy chaplain, rising through the ranks to become the Fleet Chaplain for the Atlantic Fleet.

Virginia Beach

Virginia Beach is the perfect spot to end your trip. Where the Chesapeake Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean, there are miles of sandy coastline that provide endless possibilities for some fun in the sun, from parasailing, fishing, whale watching, to sunbathing and sand castles. Its beaches and boardwalk are renowned across the U.S., and there are also some neat museums to visit in town, including the Military Aviation Museum (with the world’s largest collection of operating World War I and World War II aircraft), a search and rescue museum, and the 10,000 animals at the Virginia Aquarium.

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