SUN, SAND AND CATHOLIC SAN DIEGO

San Diego (photo courtesy of San Diego Tourism Authority)

The southern most strip of coastal California provides a wealth of memorable vacation experiences. From world class beaches, to universally beloved theme parks and historic Catholic missions, there is something for everyone in this corner of the Golden State.

The birth of the California Missions and Old Town

San Diego was named for St. Didicus of Alcala (a lay Franciscan who was among the first missionaries to the Canary Islands in the late fifteenth century).

It is rare to find a major city in America that was founded by a saint of the Catholic Church, but San Diego holds this honor. Atop Presidio Hill in 1769, St. Junipero Serra planted a cross which claimed this land as the site of the first mission and presidio in Upper California. He went on to celebrate his first Mass in California on July 2, 1769 at this site.

The story of St. Junipero Serra and the conversion of the native peoples of California is well known. Of the string of 21 missions established across the state, the very first one was established here in San Diego in 1769.

The original mission, which became a site of martyrdom, was built on Presidio Hill, where the gleaming white Junipero Serra Museum now stands. The native peoples actually burned the first mission in 1769, killing the first pastor of the mission church and two others. Although he rebuilt the mission, St. Junipero soon order it moved to its present location inland, about six miles away. The museum built atop this hill overlooking the valley and the Old Town State Park contains thousands of artifacts unearthed from the original mission site and is a great place for getting acquainted with the early history of the Golden State.

The Junipero Serra Museum in Presidio Park (photo courtesy of San Diego Tourism Authority)

The Presidio and mission was built at the top of the hill, but at its foot lay the very first town on the west coast, where the Old Town State Historic Park is now found. The most visited state park in California, it provides a collection of historic nineteenth buildings re-creating what life was like in this frontier California town, set amidst the intersecting backdrop of colorful Mexican heritage and the Old West frontier. The entire Old Town district consists of over 150 shops and restaurants and distinct museums and historic houses. This is where you will be able to soak in some of the charm of Old Mexico while treating the kids to free street entertainment.

On the edge of the Old Town State Historic Park is the beautiful and welcoming Immaculate Conception parish, as well as the old Adobe Chapel on Conde Street, a two minute walk away from the parish. The old Adobe Chapel, is now a preserved historic site. Established in 1849 after the mission system had been abolished by the Mexican state, it was the site of the first parish in the city and its interior is well preserved from the mid nineteenth century.

Immaculate Conception Parish in Old Town (photo courtesy: San Diego Tourism Authority)

Basilica Mission of San Diego de Alcala

Following the early difficulties sustaining the mission on Presidio Hill, the friars moved the Mission of San Diego de Alcala about six miles inland along the San Diego River, to its present location. Today, visitors can experience the beauty of the Spanish influenced mission church, which holds the distinction of being California’s first mission church. It is open to visitors daily (with a small admission fee) and is also open daily mass. The campus consists of the old basilica church, two chapels, a gift shop and the religious education center and is easily accessible by car off of Interstate 5 or within easy walking distance of the Old Town Trolley stop.

Photo courtesy of San Diego Tourism Authority; credit Jeffrey Lamont Brown

In advance of making your visit to the Basilica, you can learn more about the history of the missionary effort in San Diego with this short video below.

The Kumeyaay People, who lived in the region for over 10,000 years, were the first to encounter St. Junipero Serra and the Franciscan missionaries. The community still remains in the San Diego area to this day, and you can visit the St. Kateri Tekakwitha Church and Shrine in nearby Barona, which remains a mission church for the Kumeyaay People. The church and shrine is located about 20 miles outside of San Diego and you can even experience mass in the Kumeyaay language. The church is located across the street from a casino resort and golf course operated by the Kumeyaay.

Balboa Park

The Crown Jewel of San Diego is its expansive Balboa Park. At over 1,200 acres it is one of the largest urban parks in North America and is home to beautifully landscaped gardens, 17 museums covering everything from air and space to natural history, live theatres, a collection of international cottages profiling 35 different countries, and of course, the world famous San Diego Zoo. One of the most interesting attractions in the park is the Spreckels Organ Pavilion, believed to house the largest outdoor musical instrument in the world. There are free concerts every Monday evening during the summer months and year-round concerts on Sunday afternoons.

El Prado Theater at Balboa Park (photo courtesy of San Diego Tourism Authority)

Within Balboa Park is St. Francis Chapel, which was built as a religious monument for the 1935 Exposition. While it is not a consecrated Catholic Church, its interior is a faithful reproduction of mission style churches, including a gold leaf altar screen with ornate carvings of Our Lady, St. Francis Xavier and St. Diego de Alcala.

Little Italy and the Waterfront

Not far from Balboa Park are some of San Diego’s most beloved neighborhoods for entertainment and dining, the Gaslamp Quarter and Little Italy. In the midst of the Gaslamp Quarter is one of the finest baseball fields in the country, Petco Park, home of the MLB’s San Diego Padres. As you probably guessed, the team’s name has a Catholic connection: “Padres” is Spanish for priests and friars, and the team was named in tribute to St. Junipero Serra and the Franciscan friars who founded the city in 1769.

Petco Field (photo courtesy of San Diego Tourism Authority)

Little Italy, as one would expect, is lined with fantastic restaurants and cafes. At the heart of Little Italy is the nearly century old Our Lady of the Rosary Catholic Church.

“Quando le tempeste della vita minacciano la tua fragile barca, guarda la Stella—invoca Maria.”
 (“When the storms of life threaten your fragile bark, look to the Star—invoke Mary.”)

The above prayer of St. Bernard has been the guiding principle for the parishioners of Our Lady of the Rosary, particularly the many fishermen who called this parish home over the decades. In fact, the parish was built in the 1920s by an itinerant Salesian missionary with the Italian and Portuguese fishermen pledging a percentage of the sales of each tuna they caught to repay the debt incurred for its construction.

The exterior was inspired by a building in the Vatican Gardens, and as it was built by fisherman, it is not surprising to see the most famous fisherman in the Bible, St. Peter, prominently displayed on the exterior. The sanctuary and nave are lined with paintings commissioned by a local California artist trained in Italy, with portraits of all twelve of the apostles as well as a beautiful painting across the top of the sanctuary of the Crucifixtion and opposite it, a painting of the Last Judgment, as well as stained glass windows depicting the 15 mysteries of the Glorious, Joyful and Sorrowful mysteries. You can count over 100 images of angels built into the church’s extensive artwork. There is also a Catholic gift shop on site.

Gelato in Little Italy (photo courtesy of San Diego Tourism Authority)

After sampling some gelato or other fine Italian treats, be sure to check out the other attractions in the Little Italy neighborhood, whether it is exploring one of the many European style piazzas or visiting the historic San Diego Firehouse Museum.

From Little Italy, it is a short trip to the Embarcadero – the waterfront along San Diego Bay. Here you will find the world’s oldest iron hulled merchant ship still afloat, the Star of India alongside the Maritime Museum, as well as the USS Midway Museum – a decommissioned aircraft carrier that served up until the 1991 Gulf War, which you can tour. In the summer months, you can also experience performances of the San Diego Symphony under the stars along the Embarcadero. Finally, the Headquarters at Seaport outdoor shopping center along the Embarcadero is impressive. It is connected with the old police headquarters, which has been converted into stores, but where you can still visit its row of jail cells and see the various police memorabilia on display.

Just north of the Embarcadero is the world renowned SeaWorld theme park. Less well known is that across the interstate is the gorgeous Immaculata Church, located on the University of San Diego campus. It is arguably the most beautiful parish in San Diego and it also offers Eucharistic adoration throughout the day every Wednesday.

Other popular theme parks in the San Diego region include SeaWorld near the downtown, Legoland in Carlsbad and the brand new Sesame Place park that opened this past March in Chula Vista.

Last but not least…the beaches

La Jolla (photo courtesy of San Diego Tourism Authority)

Aside from all of the history and the attractions, you cannot leave San Diego without taking some time at one of its many famous beaches. One of the most popular are the public beaches on Coronado Island, just across the bay from San Diego. It is a lot of fun to take a public ferry ride across San Diego Bay to Coronado Island and also visit the grounds of its iconic Coronado Island hotel. Ocean Beach, Pacific Beach and Mission Beach, further up the coast are also popular. Best of all are the scenic beaches and oceanfront caves in La Jolla. Before ending your vacation, visit the stunning cross high atop Mt. Soledad in La Jolla, honoring our nation’s veterans, at the Mt. Soledad National Veterans Memorial.

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